B10a2-00 freelander 2 ошибка

Обновлено: 06.07.2024

Всем доброго времени суток. Утром позвонил двоюродный брат, ездит на ФФ3 1.6 механика, говорит подъезжал к дому, во дворе въехал в снежную кашу, заглох, завелся, тронулся и снова заглох. Ошибок на приборке нет, стартер крутит, авто не заводится. Крутил, крутил, высадил аккум, унес заряжать, авто бросил у дороги, благо не далеко от дома. Приехал я после работы вечером, накинули аккум, подключил, юцдс выдало кучу ошибок, в основном из-за низкого напряжения, сбросил. Не заводится, проверил снова, висят две ошибки в ВСМ:

B10C0: Подача питания к топливному насосу
Тип отказа 0x15:
Короткое замыкание на + аккумулятора или разрыв электрической цепи
Статус 0x6C:
Контрольная лампа выключена (MIL)
В настоящий момент неисправность присутствует
[+] Snapshot
Global Real Time2749278 min
Total Distance98330 km
Main ECU Voltage Supply12 V
In-Car temperature-40 Deg C

и две ошибки в RCM
B1211: Управление срабатыванием преднатяжителя устройства втягивания ремня
безопасности водителя
Тип отказа 0x13:
Разрыв электрической цепи
Статус 0xAF:
Контрольная лампа включена (MIL)
В настоящий момент неисправность присутствует

B1214: Управление срабатыванием преднатяжителя устройства втягивания ремня
безопасности пассажира
Тип отказа 0x13:
Разрыв электрической цепи
Статус 0xAF:
Контрольная лампа включена (MIL)
В настоящий момент неисправность присутствует

Ошибки не удаляются. Авто не заводится. Подумал, нужно сделать сброс RCM, ни когда раньше с этим не сталкивался, нажал на вкладке спец процедуры, выдал, на англ, что-то типа запросов - 0, процедура не выполнена. Сделал инициализацию, теперь в RCM висит еще одна не стираемая ошибка:
U2100: Процедура первичной конфигурации не выполнена
Тип отказа 0x00:
Нет никакой дополнительной информации о неисправностях для этого (DTC)
Статус 0x2F:
Контрольная лампа выключена (MIL)
В настоящий момент неисправность присутствует

Есть у кого нибудь мысли, что могло случиться с авто и можно ли как то оживить программно?


Вылазит ошибка, и не стирается. В какую сторону копать не пойму. Информации в инете почти нет. Понимаю, что датчик, но как понять какой и где стоит? И на что влияет?

Land Rover Freelander 2009, двигатель дизельный 2.2 л., 160 л. с., полный привод, автоматическая коробка передач — своими руками

Машины в продаже

Комментарии 19


Снимать ошибку обязательно! Через SDD. Объясню почему, она выключает перекачивающий насос бака, а так как бак у нас седельного типа, как только уровень топлива падает до 1/4 — п.ц, т.е завоздушивание топливной системы и либо эвакуатор либо танцы с бубном с прокачкой топливной системы.


Я откатал с этой ошибкой уже несколько баков, проблем с перекачкой нет.


Проблема проявляется именно при минимальном уровне топлива. Я консультировался в ДЦ, мозги авто считают, что машина попала в ДТП и специально отключают насос, что бы минимизировать риски. Насос нужно через SDD авторизовывать принудительно.


Снимать ошибку обязательно! Через SDD. Объясню почему, она выключает перекачивающий насос бака, а так как бак у нас седельного типа, как только уровень топлива падает до 1/4 — п.ц, т.е завоздушивание топливной системы и либо эвакуатор либо танцы с бубном с прокачкой топливной системы.

Опа, серьёзно так? У меня как раз такая проблема


Снимать ошибку обязательно! Через SDD. Объясню почему, она выключает перекачивающий насос бака, а так как бак у нас седельного типа, как только уровень топлива падает до 1/4 — п.ц, т.е завоздушивание топливной системы и либо эвакуатор либо танцы с бубном с прокачкой топливной системы.

У меня просто сейчас мир перевернулся, я уже два года до четверти катаю, на ошибку даже подумать не мог, на насос питание подаю — работает, а как чуть ниже четверти, все, капут, уже да снимать собрался и смотреть

The car was Again impossible to start (it has a silly button start than does not allow ignition on without cranking) so I tried Gap's reset in the service menu. But all my attempts give me that E5 , no success

As sources in this forum and the diagram suggest a link between this error and the recently changed starter I have controlled the battery terminals, said starter's power supply, solenoid cable etc. All is well
It turns but it does not start

I also checked all the states in the airbag module

Just found no reason for the 'crash'
I add some pages if possible

Then I thought immediately that it is the sequence ignition - ignition off - Ignition which does not work because it is impossible to put the ignition without the starter engaged.
So I tried it without the starter relay (no it gets angry)

And without the fuse of the starter to get the ignition state without starting.
It does not generate any other error but always it is in E5 if I do the procedure.

U0415-94 (2 Invalid data received from ABS control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
( on 07-03-2019 19:29:57 at 172438 km )

B10A2-00 (2F) Crash input
( on 06-03-2019 10:50:49 at 172219 km )
The only error i couldn't erase ever

B10C0-12 (2 Fuel pump power supply - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery
( on 10-03-2019 05:54:29 at 172828 km )

B1115-13 (2F) High mounted stoplamp control - General electrical failure - circuit open
( on 06-03-2019 11:01:32 at 172219 km )

B1D01-13 (6C) Right low beam circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open
( on 06-03-2019 17:51:59 at 172276 km )

B1D13-14 (6C) Interior lamps 1 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( on 06-03-2019 11:00:54 at 172219 km )
This one came back once


I also checked the fuses etc. I even cut the brown cableI even cut the brown cable that indicates the crash and I reconnected it.

The unique way to start the car is by pushing it back a bit.
After it starts but it will go another time on strike while driving for no logical reason from time to time

I studied electrical diagrams for hours.
The crash sensors are not there, nor in the workshop manual.

They also say that there is a procedure for this error with specific test cases but they do not elaborate any detail.

I hope you have an idea.

I must admit that I spent my whole Sunday with this and nothing

I have a permanent crash error that I cant clear either - its a known software fault in my code reader. Therefore, it COULD be a red herring so spend some time thinking about the other codes you have got.

You definitely need to make sure you have a good battery and that you fit an additional earth lead, if not already fitted, preferably straight to the starter.

Go around and clean up your earth connections in the engine bay and on the rear end including tailgate.

Lastly, check your wheel bearings as a failed bearing can throw up ABS faults.

Good luck and let us know how you get on. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

From what I know, the crash input error is not erased by conventional means, but it needs a specific procedure to be run inside dealer's SDD.
IIRC, you need to put the BCM into extended diagnostic mode, authorize yourself into it and then write a zero value to a specific memory location.

To add to the above, crash codes as I recall are written into ROM, and despite many dubious and downright dodgy traders on FleaBay et al who claim that they can erase these short term, my understanding (correct me if I am wrong) is that the moment that the BCM detects a voltage drop, then these codes are dumped straight back into the main ECU.

Apparently it works on a similar basis as the mileage tamper preventative, which is hidden away somewhere also in ROM to stop aforementioned dubious traders frigging about with things permanently.

I don't understand your statement that you can't turn the ignition on without cranking the engine.

Of course you can do that, just don't depress the clutch pedal (if manual) or brake pedal (if auto) & press the button for a couple of seconds. 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
165500Km as of 12/21
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II

alex_pescaru wrote:

From what I know, the crash input error is not erased by conventional means, but it needs a specific procedure to be run inside dealer's SDD.
IIRC, you need to put the BCM into extended diagnostic mode, authorize yourself into it and then write a zero value to a specific memory location.

Sorry what is IIRC?

So Patrick send me this
B10A2-00 Crash input - No sub type information
Crash input circuit short to ground, short to power, open circuit
Crash Input signal is being received. Vehicle has been involved in a collision
Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system check for related DTCs within the Restraints Control Module (RCM) and Engine Control Module (ECM). Refer to the relevant section of the workshop manual
Refer to electrical circuit diagrams and check crash input circuit for short to ground, short to power, open circuit
Check the vehicle for previous or existing collision damage
Workshop manual says
B10A2-02 Crash Input - general Incorrect signal received Carry out the pinpoint tests associated to this DTC using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system

But WHAT are the pinpoint tests? it doesn't say. Maybe it is my English or it is something everybody knows..


No errors in RCM or ECM

Ladies and gentlemen, who knows where the C23F plug is located?
I must admit that I never found the electrical library of this car, I have only the wiring diagrams and workshop manual

SouthamFL2 wrote:

To add to the above, crash codes as I recall are written into ROM, and despite many dubious and downright dodgy traders on FleaBay et al who claim that they can erase these short term, my understanding (correct me if I am wrong) is that the moment that the BCM detects a voltage drop, then these codes are dumped straight back into the main ECU.

Apparently it works on a similar basis as the mileage tamper preventative, which is hidden away somewhere also in ROM to stop aforementioned dubious traders frigging about with things permanently.

very interesting. So why is the procedure in the menu?

The vehicle never had a crash.
there are NO errors in the RCM
there is in the dozens of RCM inputs not one crash counter activated.
all the deployment control inputs are around 3 Ω

I am not worried about mileage etc. The client needs his car to work without cutting out on the Panamericana at 80 km/h, which is downright dangerous. That has nothing to do with dodgy fleabay, it is bad documentation and bad programming from Land Rover.

This is why I asked whether anybody knows why the car will start aftr pushing it backwards?

Badger51 wrote:

I don't understand your statement that you can't turn the ignition on without cranking the engine.

Of course you can do that, just don't depress the clutch pedal (if manual) or brake pedal (if auto) & press the button for a couple of seconds.

Are td4 and i6 different? This one is NAS. unfortunately
How long do you have to press? Whenever I tried it stays dark. Makes me jump out of my skin that there is nothing beween off and crank.
the owner has tried this 100s of times. He hates this feature. He tells me the only way is to leave it in gear, but then you can't turn ignition off in gear.
makes absolutely no sense to me.

thank god all my landrovers have had a proper key and are 100% free of electronic interference when starting, the programming department must think we are idiots.

Pedro wrote:

I have a permanent crash error that I cant clear either - its a known software fault in my code reader. Therefore, it COULD be a red herring so spend some time thinking about the other codes you have got.

You definitely need to make sure you have a good battery and that you fit an additional earth lead, if not already fitted, preferably straight to the starter.

Go around and clean up your earth connections in the engine bay and on the rear end including tailgate.

Lastly, check your wheel bearings as a failed bearing can throw up ABS faults.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

The starter seems fine bu I will follow your advice.
Please which earth leads round the tailgate? Since I get the rear lamp errors your hint is definitely worth looking into! Technician in Guanacaste.
Always after documentation.. will help those who look for it. Free of course

There is a main earth lead from the top of the body to the tailgate.

A lot of the electrical codes are about things down the rear so check the wiring for damage under the rear floor etc. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Here is what I would do if I had the problem that you are having

1. Remove the B+ terminal

2. Charge the battery

3. check the voltage it should be over 12.6 Volts

4. has it been at least 2 hours since B+ was removed? (if not then wait 2 hours if yes then go to next step)

6. Close the hood and all of the doors

7. Lock and unlock the vehicle

8. Enter the Vehicle (Do not touch the brake)

10. Dock the Key (Do not touch the brake)

12. Touch the Brake briefly (A relay may click)

13. Remove foot from brake

14. Press the start/stop button briefly (Did anything turn on?)

15. hold the start/stop button for 8 seconds (Did anything turn on?)

16. Un-Dock the Key

17. If nothing turned on repeat steps 10 to 16 three times

18. If the dash board and Radio and Navigation turn on then at step 15 press the brake and push start/stop and the engine should start


If the Start stop button is bad then the vehicle won't start and you will not be able to activate the other power modes.

If the Voltage at the battery is too low the modules can get latched up and stop functioning (Disconnecting power for 2 hours and then applying >12.6 volts should clear this problem)

Note: as Alex pointed out the crash mode bit may have to be reset.


One last check - if you enter the vehicle without the key can you turn on the radio? Press the power button for 5 seconds?

Also press the button on the instrument cluster with the Key out and the Miles Traveled should be displayed?

The Electronics in the Freelander II (LR2) are based on the Volvo XC70, XC60, XC90, S80

Volvo does a better job of explaining the power modes than Land Rover



Here is a PDF about Trouble shooting the fuel system

When you get past the Start/Stop button you will likely need to look here next

Thank you that is very good advice

Peter you are a star.

I have already asked the owner to disconnect the battery.
It is only a month old, but I said please charge it well during these 2 hours
Then I will translate your recipe.

After that if all fails I'll drive there and see what the tailgate earth and fuel pump is like Technician in Guanacaste.
Always after documentation.. will help those who look for it. Free of course

PRINCIPLES OF OPERATION

The ECM will only allow engine crank, spark and injector functions when the following conditions are met:
* A hardwired Park/Neutral signal is received from the Transmission Control Module (TCM)
* A hardwired ignition signal is received from the CJB
* A hardwired crank request signal is received from the CJB
* Encrypted data exchange between the instrument cluster and the ECM is verified.

Before the CJB will send the hardwired ignition signal, it must satisfactorily complete the following:
* Exchange encrypted data with the start control module to validate the remote handset.

Additionally, before the CJB will send the hardwired crank request signal it must receive the following signals:
* Brake signal from the speed control inhibit switch
* Hardwired transmission in Park (P) or Neutral (N) signal from the selector lever assembly.

With the remote handset inserted in the start control module and the stop/start button is pressed, the start control module issues battery voltage high signal on the LIN bus connection to the CJB and the fuel pump is run for 2 seconds to prime the fuel system. The CJB uses this signal together with the stop lamp switch signal and issues a crank request message on the high speed CAN bus to the ECM.

The ECM, on receipt of the crank request message, then provides a power and ground supply to the starter relay in the BJB, closing the relay contacts. Battery voltage is supplied via a fuse through the starter relay and is passed to the starter motor solenoid coil. The coil is energized, closing the solenoid contacts and allowing a fuse battery voltage supply direct from the battery to operate the starter motor and crank the engine and simultaneously switch the fuel pump on.

The ECM operates the starter motor until the engine starts which is determined by the engine speed exceeding a pre-determined value.

The ECM has an auto start function which allows the engine to continue cranking if the stop/start button is released. The starter motor will operate until the engine starts or a pre-determined period of time has elapsed which is based on engine coolant temperature. Low engine coolant temperatures allow longer crank times. If the engine does not rotate or the engine speed is low, the ECM removes the power supply and ground from the starter relay stopping the crank process.

Operation of the starter motor will not be allowed or will be interrupted if:
* The engine is running and the engine speed has exceeded a predetermined speed
* The encrypted data exchange between the instrument cluster, ECM, CJB and start control module has failed to:
-----> Identify the remote handset
* The gear selector lever is not in the park 'P' or neutral 'N' position.
----> The signal is determined from:
--------> a signal from the TCM and also the transmission mounted position switch
* The brake pedal is not pressed.

Всем доброго времени суток. Утром позвонил двоюродный брат, ездит на ФФ3 1.6 механика, говорит подъезжал к дому, во дворе въехал в снежную кашу, заглох, завелся, тронулся и снова заглох. Ошибок на приборке нет, стартер крутит, авто не заводится. Крутил, крутил, высадил аккум, унес заряжать, авто бросил у дороги, благо не далеко от дома. Приехал я после работы вечером, накинули аккум, подключил, юцдс выдало кучу ошибок, в основном из-за низкого напряжения, сбросил. Не заводится, проверил снова, висят две ошибки в ВСМ:

B10C0: Подача питания к топливному насосу
Тип отказа 0x15:
Короткое замыкание на + аккумулятора или разрыв электрической цепи
Статус 0x6C:
Контрольная лампа выключена (MIL)
В настоящий момент неисправность присутствует
[+] Snapshot
Global Real Time2749278 min
Total Distance98330 km
Main ECU Voltage Supply12 V
In-Car temperature-40 Deg C

и две ошибки в RCM
B1211: Управление срабатыванием преднатяжителя устройства втягивания ремня
безопасности водителя
Тип отказа 0x13:
Разрыв электрической цепи
Статус 0xAF:
Контрольная лампа включена (MIL)
В настоящий момент неисправность присутствует

B1214: Управление срабатыванием преднатяжителя устройства втягивания ремня
безопасности пассажира
Тип отказа 0x13:
Разрыв электрической цепи
Статус 0xAF:
Контрольная лампа включена (MIL)
В настоящий момент неисправность присутствует

Ошибки не удаляются. Авто не заводится. Подумал, нужно сделать сброс RCM, ни когда раньше с этим не сталкивался, нажал на вкладке спец процедуры, выдал, на англ, что-то типа запросов - 0, процедура не выполнена. Сделал инициализацию, теперь в RCM висит еще одна не стираемая ошибка:
U2100: Процедура первичной конфигурации не выполнена
Тип отказа 0x00:
Нет никакой дополнительной информации о неисправностях для этого (DTC)
Статус 0x2F:
Контрольная лампа выключена (MIL)
В настоящий момент неисправность присутствует

Есть у кого нибудь мысли, что могло случиться с авто и можно ли как то оживить программно?

The car was Again impossible to start (it has a silly button start than does not allow ignition on without cranking) so I tried Gap's reset in the service menu. But all my attempts give me that E5 , no success

As sources in this forum and the diagram suggest a link between this error and the recently changed starter I have controlled the battery terminals, said starter's power supply, solenoid cable etc. All is well
It turns but it does not start

I also checked all the states in the airbag module

Just found no reason for the 'crash'
I add some pages if possible

Then I thought immediately that it is the sequence ignition - ignition off - Ignition which does not work because it is impossible to put the ignition without the starter engaged.
So I tried it without the starter relay (no it gets angry)

And without the fuse of the starter to get the ignition state without starting.
It does not generate any other error but always it is in E5 if I do the procedure.

U0415-94 (2 Invalid data received from ABS control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
( on 07-03-2019 19:29:57 at 172438 km )

B10A2-00 (2F) Crash input
( on 06-03-2019 10:50:49 at 172219 km )
The only error i couldn't erase ever

B10C0-12 (2 Fuel pump power supply - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery
( on 10-03-2019 05:54:29 at 172828 km )

B1115-13 (2F) High mounted stoplamp control - General electrical failure - circuit open
( on 06-03-2019 11:01:32 at 172219 km )

B1D01-13 (6C) Right low beam circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open
( on 06-03-2019 17:51:59 at 172276 km )

B1D13-14 (6C) Interior lamps 1 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( on 06-03-2019 11:00:54 at 172219 km )
This one came back once


I also checked the fuses etc. I even cut the brown cableI even cut the brown cable that indicates the crash and I reconnected it.

The unique way to start the car is by pushing it back a bit.
After it starts but it will go another time on strike while driving for no logical reason from time to time

I studied electrical diagrams for hours.
The crash sensors are not there, nor in the workshop manual.

They also say that there is a procedure for this error with specific test cases but they do not elaborate any detail.

I hope you have an idea.

I must admit that I spent my whole Sunday with this and nothing

I have a permanent crash error that I cant clear either - its a known software fault in my code reader. Therefore, it COULD be a red herring so spend some time thinking about the other codes you have got.

You definitely need to make sure you have a good battery and that you fit an additional earth lead, if not already fitted, preferably straight to the starter.

Go around and clean up your earth connections in the engine bay and on the rear end including tailgate.

Lastly, check your wheel bearings as a failed bearing can throw up ABS faults.

Good luck and let us know how you get on. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

From what I know, the crash input error is not erased by conventional means, but it needs a specific procedure to be run inside dealer's SDD.
IIRC, you need to put the BCM into extended diagnostic mode, authorize yourself into it and then write a zero value to a specific memory location.

To add to the above, crash codes as I recall are written into ROM, and despite many dubious and downright dodgy traders on FleaBay et al who claim that they can erase these short term, my understanding (correct me if I am wrong) is that the moment that the BCM detects a voltage drop, then these codes are dumped straight back into the main ECU.

Apparently it works on a similar basis as the mileage tamper preventative, which is hidden away somewhere also in ROM to stop aforementioned dubious traders frigging about with things permanently.

I don't understand your statement that you can't turn the ignition on without cranking the engine.

Of course you can do that, just don't depress the clutch pedal (if manual) or brake pedal (if auto) & press the button for a couple of seconds. 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
165500Km as of 12/21
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II

alex_pescaru wrote:

From what I know, the crash input error is not erased by conventional means, but it needs a specific procedure to be run inside dealer's SDD.
IIRC, you need to put the BCM into extended diagnostic mode, authorize yourself into it and then write a zero value to a specific memory location.

Sorry what is IIRC?

So Patrick send me this
B10A2-00 Crash input - No sub type information
Crash input circuit short to ground, short to power, open circuit
Crash Input signal is being received. Vehicle has been involved in a collision
Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system check for related DTCs within the Restraints Control Module (RCM) and Engine Control Module (ECM). Refer to the relevant section of the workshop manual
Refer to electrical circuit diagrams and check crash input circuit for short to ground, short to power, open circuit
Check the vehicle for previous or existing collision damage
Workshop manual says
B10A2-02 Crash Input - general Incorrect signal received Carry out the pinpoint tests associated to this DTC using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system

But WHAT are the pinpoint tests? it doesn't say. Maybe it is my English or it is something everybody knows..


No errors in RCM or ECM

Ladies and gentlemen, who knows where the C23F plug is located?
I must admit that I never found the electrical library of this car, I have only the wiring diagrams and workshop manual

SouthamFL2 wrote:

To add to the above, crash codes as I recall are written into ROM, and despite many dubious and downright dodgy traders on FleaBay et al who claim that they can erase these short term, my understanding (correct me if I am wrong) is that the moment that the BCM detects a voltage drop, then these codes are dumped straight back into the main ECU.

Apparently it works on a similar basis as the mileage tamper preventative, which is hidden away somewhere also in ROM to stop aforementioned dubious traders frigging about with things permanently.

very interesting. So why is the procedure in the menu?

The vehicle never had a crash.
there are NO errors in the RCM
there is in the dozens of RCM inputs not one crash counter activated.
all the deployment control inputs are around 3 Ω

I am not worried about mileage etc. The client needs his car to work without cutting out on the Panamericana at 80 km/h, which is downright dangerous. That has nothing to do with dodgy fleabay, it is bad documentation and bad programming from Land Rover.

This is why I asked whether anybody knows why the car will start aftr pushing it backwards?

Badger51 wrote:

I don't understand your statement that you can't turn the ignition on without cranking the engine.

Of course you can do that, just don't depress the clutch pedal (if manual) or brake pedal (if auto) & press the button for a couple of seconds.

Are td4 and i6 different? This one is NAS. unfortunately
How long do you have to press? Whenever I tried it stays dark. Makes me jump out of my skin that there is nothing beween off and crank.
the owner has tried this 100s of times. He hates this feature. He tells me the only way is to leave it in gear, but then you can't turn ignition off in gear.
makes absolutely no sense to me.

thank god all my landrovers have had a proper key and are 100% free of electronic interference when starting, the programming department must think we are idiots.

Pedro wrote:

I have a permanent crash error that I cant clear either - its a known software fault in my code reader. Therefore, it COULD be a red herring so spend some time thinking about the other codes you have got.

You definitely need to make sure you have a good battery and that you fit an additional earth lead, if not already fitted, preferably straight to the starter.

Go around and clean up your earth connections in the engine bay and on the rear end including tailgate.

Lastly, check your wheel bearings as a failed bearing can throw up ABS faults.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

The starter seems fine bu I will follow your advice.
Please which earth leads round the tailgate? Since I get the rear lamp errors your hint is definitely worth looking into! Technician in Guanacaste.
Always after documentation.. will help those who look for it. Free of course

There is a main earth lead from the top of the body to the tailgate.

A lot of the electrical codes are about things down the rear so check the wiring for damage under the rear floor etc. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Here is what I would do if I had the problem that you are having

1. Remove the B+ terminal

2. Charge the battery

3. check the voltage it should be over 12.6 Volts

4. has it been at least 2 hours since B+ was removed? (if not then wait 2 hours if yes then go to next step)

6. Close the hood and all of the doors

7. Lock and unlock the vehicle

8. Enter the Vehicle (Do not touch the brake)

10. Dock the Key (Do not touch the brake)

12. Touch the Brake briefly (A relay may click)

13. Remove foot from brake

14. Press the start/stop button briefly (Did anything turn on?)

15. hold the start/stop button for 8 seconds (Did anything turn on?)

16. Un-Dock the Key

17. If nothing turned on repeat steps 10 to 16 three times

18. If the dash board and Radio and Navigation turn on then at step 15 press the brake and push start/stop and the engine should start


If the Start stop button is bad then the vehicle won't start and you will not be able to activate the other power modes.

If the Voltage at the battery is too low the modules can get latched up and stop functioning (Disconnecting power for 2 hours and then applying >12.6 volts should clear this problem)

Note: as Alex pointed out the crash mode bit may have to be reset.


One last check - if you enter the vehicle without the key can you turn on the radio? Press the power button for 5 seconds?

Also press the button on the instrument cluster with the Key out and the Miles Traveled should be displayed?

The Electronics in the Freelander II (LR2) are based on the Volvo XC70, XC60, XC90, S80

Volvo does a better job of explaining the power modes than Land Rover



Here is a PDF about Trouble shooting the fuel system

When you get past the Start/Stop button you will likely need to look here next

Thank you that is very good advice

Peter you are a star.

I have already asked the owner to disconnect the battery.
It is only a month old, but I said please charge it well during these 2 hours
Then I will translate your recipe.

After that if all fails I'll drive there and see what the tailgate earth and fuel pump is like Technician in Guanacaste.
Always after documentation.. will help those who look for it. Free of course

PRINCIPLES OF OPERATION

The ECM will only allow engine crank, spark and injector functions when the following conditions are met:
* A hardwired Park/Neutral signal is received from the Transmission Control Module (TCM)
* A hardwired ignition signal is received from the CJB
* A hardwired crank request signal is received from the CJB
* Encrypted data exchange between the instrument cluster and the ECM is verified.

Before the CJB will send the hardwired ignition signal, it must satisfactorily complete the following:
* Exchange encrypted data with the start control module to validate the remote handset.

Additionally, before the CJB will send the hardwired crank request signal it must receive the following signals:
* Brake signal from the speed control inhibit switch
* Hardwired transmission in Park (P) or Neutral (N) signal from the selector lever assembly.

With the remote handset inserted in the start control module and the stop/start button is pressed, the start control module issues battery voltage high signal on the LIN bus connection to the CJB and the fuel pump is run for 2 seconds to prime the fuel system. The CJB uses this signal together with the stop lamp switch signal and issues a crank request message on the high speed CAN bus to the ECM.

The ECM, on receipt of the crank request message, then provides a power and ground supply to the starter relay in the BJB, closing the relay contacts. Battery voltage is supplied via a fuse through the starter relay and is passed to the starter motor solenoid coil. The coil is energized, closing the solenoid contacts and allowing a fuse battery voltage supply direct from the battery to operate the starter motor and crank the engine and simultaneously switch the fuel pump on.

The ECM operates the starter motor until the engine starts which is determined by the engine speed exceeding a pre-determined value.

The ECM has an auto start function which allows the engine to continue cranking if the stop/start button is released. The starter motor will operate until the engine starts or a pre-determined period of time has elapsed which is based on engine coolant temperature. Low engine coolant temperatures allow longer crank times. If the engine does not rotate or the engine speed is low, the ECM removes the power supply and ground from the starter relay stopping the crank process.

Operation of the starter motor will not be allowed or will be interrupted if:
* The engine is running and the engine speed has exceeded a predetermined speed
* The encrypted data exchange between the instrument cluster, ECM, CJB and start control module has failed to:
-----> Identify the remote handset
* The gear selector lever is not in the park 'P' or neutral 'N' position.
----> The signal is determined from:
--------> a signal from the TCM and also the transmission mounted position switch
* The brake pedal is not pressed.

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